#12: One Eared Stag

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Food writers are unfailingly enamored with chef-owner Robert Phalen’s ability to surprise with unorthodox unions of ingredients. (Our dining critic is still mooning over a brilliant plate of pan-fried dates with pine nuts, white anchovies, olives, and mint he devoured at a lunch early this year.) Why isn’t One Eared Stag higher on the list, then? Occasionally Phalen’s whimsies stumble, and they stumble hard (seafood experiments can be the worst letdowns). Want a sure bet? Order the “meatstick,” Phalen’s name for his better-than-the-rest double cheeseburger.

1029 Edgewood Avenue, 404-525-4479, oneearedstag.com

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