Photograph by Caroline C. Kilgore
Korean barbecue is the sum of its parts. At 9292—the flagship of a growing mini-empire, including the almost-as-good D92 in Decatur—each part is a cut above: a rainbow of daily changing side dishes (banchan) like pickled radishes and soy-glazed peanuts; glistening slices of marbled brisket, pork belly, and ribeye; charcoal grills (which we prefer to their electric counterparts); and a sleek, industrial space. (As for the name: Say “92-92” in Korean, and it sounds like the word for “grill.”) It’s a marvel to watch the servers navigate the labyrinth of semiprivate dining cubicles. Need a water refill? More meat? Push the call button, and your table number flashes on a screen near the kitchen. 3360 Satellite Boulevard, Duluth, 770-680-2951, facebook.com/9292KBBQ
