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Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison’s Westside looker morphed from an edgier “whole-animal cuisine” theme to a broader please-all-palates approach. The menu constantly changes according to whims and the seasons, but count on some of the city’s crispiest pommes frites (recently served with a side of pimento cheese foam for dipping), sides of locally grown vegetables that combine to make a lovely vegetarian entree, and chicken schnitzel given the Southern treatment with bacon jam and collards. The most daring options during a recent meal brought to mind staples at classic French restaurants: snails, veal sweetbreads, beef tartare, roasted bone marrow with toast, blood sausage.

1170 Howell Mill Road, 404-892-3335, starprovisions.com

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