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Antico Pizza Napoletana
Now that there are chairs, stools, and even a chef’s table available by reservation, early fans can recommend the place to their cushier friends. This pizza sensation remains still an ebullient madhouse: On Fridays and Saturdays, the cooks shovel 750 pies in and out of the three imported ovens before the dough runs out.
We recommend the Gigiotto, a racy calzone with rapini and sausage, and the San Gennaro pizza crowned with spicy-sweet peppers, cipollini onions, sausage, and buffalo mozzarella. A cannolo crusted with pistachios or a sfogliatelle (tricornered pastry filled with sweetened ricotta) completes the gluttony.