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28. Antico Pizza Napoletana
Say what you will about the maestro himself, Giovanni di Palma makes a damn good Neapolitan pie. Since it opened in 2009, Antico’s imported brick ovens have stirred crowds into a frenzy as they fight to sit cheek-to-jowl along a communal table for pies with charred, swollen edges and superlative toppings (like the spicy salsiccia sausage and puffy bufala). Frank Sinatra, played at an ear-splitting decibel, and unrelenting heat from the nearby ovens keep conversation to a dull roar.
1093 Hemphill Avenue, 404-724-2333, littleitalia.com