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Here’s what our ideal neighborhood restaurant looks like: a T-shirt-friendly dress code, impeccable, often surprising food, and a bar that shakes as well as it decants. You’ll find all of that at Bruce Logue’s pasta bungalow, where Old World Italian staples get New World makeovers. Think pan-fried wedges of lasagna, thin chicken liver ravioli, and 20-yolk tagliatelle tossed with butter and kimchi. A skewer of grilled octopus and mortadella over Marsala-scented field peas is one of the greatest appetizers in the 404, while Logue’s black spaghetti with shrimp, sausage, and scallions is his signature move.
Shapes to know (and eat)
(clockwise from left)
Tossed with chicken and veal ragu
Noodles baked with fontina fonduta
Tossed with mushrooms, kimchi, and butter
Filled with chicken liver mousse
Served with sausage and shrimp
753 Edgewood Avenue, 404-577-2332, boccalupoatl.com