After floods destroyed the restaurant’s interior in 2009, Canoe has recovered swimmingly. A new alfresco bar sits on the edge of the Chattahoochee River, with a placid view of a baby-blue bridge. And a first-time customer could walk into the dining room and never sense what happened. The space has been gently updated with fresh carpet patterns and fabrics that line booths. Carvel Grant Gould, who has been executive chef since 2006, understands her audience. Dishes such as a sculptural beet and goat cheese salad, fish specials with Asian overtones, and slow-roasted short rib embellished with chocolate vinegar maintain the New American philosophy while subtly pushing the cooking in up-to-date directions. New pastry chef Sarah Koob reconstructs homey desserts, like rice pudding or blueberry cobbler with frozen lemon custard, into sophisticated treats.