Gio’s Chicken Amalfitano

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Giovanni Di Palma, the impresario behind Antico Pizza Napoletana, has built an Italian-themed multiplex on his block of the Westside near Fourteenth Street. The menu at Gio’s, which gives off an industrial-funky nonchalance similar to the pizzeria’s, is simple: seven variations on roasted chicken dishes and four pastas, available in single or family-style sizes (both generous). Order at a counter for carryout or dine at one of a few tables in a spare side room. The Sorrento chicken—dressed with lemon juice and lemon slices, garlic, olive oil, and oregano—is an early standout, a merger of sharp and mellow flavors that exemplifies why Americans love Italian food. For a feisty accompaniment, try the Napoletana pasta—ziti tossed with bitter rapini and the same piquant sauce that Di Palma uses for his pies.

1099 Hemphill Avenue, 404-347-3874, littleitalia.com

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