You can set your tongue ablaze at myriad Sichuan eateries around the metro area—it seems Atlanta’s penchant for latching onto food trends extends to our ethnic restaurants as well. Enigmatic chef Peter Cheng touched off the craze in 2006, then left town after a few months. He returned last year and then opened an eponymous restaurant in Sandy Springs with Tasty China owner Da He Yang. Where Cheng may be on any given day is a mystery (he also owns a self-named restaurant in Charlottesville, Virginia), but when it comes down to it, I still prefer Tasty China. The tatty dining room appeals like a velveteen rabbit, and the servers understand the complexities of the food far better than at Cheng’s other local restaurant. Something as simple as wonton soup reminds me how soulfully these cooks interpret Sichuan cuisine: The soup’s heat level clears your head without hurting it, and the dumplings are porkier and more gingery, exhibiting deeper contrast in flavor. It attunes the mouth for crisp dry-fried eggplant pummeled with Sichuan peppercorns, cold chicken salad with a tingly mustard sauce, and crisp morsels of duck marinated in sweet spices.