Beyond several solid taquerias scattered across Buford Highway and the northern suburbs, stellar examples of true Mexican cooking are scarce—and HB 87 probably won’t help attract a flurry of culinary talent. Blessedly, we have Taqueria La Oaxaqueña. Despite its name, tacos occupy only a small corner of the menu. The specialty that chowhounds have raved about for years is the tlayuda, a large grilled tortilla covered pizzalike with refritos, string cheese, avocado, choices of meat (pork sluiced in chile is tops), and lettuce. But the kitchen yields other rewards as well. Huaraches, the sandal-shaped boats of masa dough, are sublime loaded with rich goat meat. Chicken tamales, flavored either with mole or salsa verde, have a surprisingly delicate texture. My latest discovery: Even a burrito stuffed with carnitas blasts the palate in all the right ways. The food makes up for a humble interior and sometimes-slow service.