Our Persian restaurants—mostly concentrated in Sandy Springs but also including newcomer Sufi’s in Buckhead—offer nearly identical menus, light on the sultry, herbaceous stews that are the heart of Iranian home cooking and heavy on crowd-pleasing kebabs. The choice, then, comes down to ambience and the kitchen’s attention to detail. My vote goes to Rumi’s Kitchen, where billowy fabrics and clean lines set a mod tone. Kashk bademjan, creamy eggplant topped with fried onion and mint, transcends a description like “dip.” Initiates will love the simplicity of either filet mignon or shrimp kebabs, but adventurers should try the tahdeeg (rice cooked to a crisp at the bottom of a pan) topped with ghormeh sabzi, a veal and bean stew flavored with dried Persian lime.