When Rathbun’s opened in 2004, the Atlanta dining landscape was overrun with restaurants that emphasized buzz over food. But Kevin Rathbun’s first solo venture brilliantly merged style and substance: His prowess as a chef with multiregional American influences ricocheted as loudly as the tumult of voices off the restaurant’s concrete walls. The success of his location, on the border of Inman Park and the Old Fourth Ward, inspired a new generation of restaurants in gentrifying neighborhoods. You have to love a chef who laughs in the face of calories: Why not splash brown butter–country ham vinaigrette over a veal porterhouse? Hell, might as well start with the roasted bone marrow and then request hand-cut fries with blue cheese fondue while you’re at it.