Samgyupsal, the Korean word for grilled pork belly, sounds inscrutable. Picture instead a restaurant featuring tabletop cooking and mobbed with foodies. Meats—pork belly and boneless short rib headline, but shrimp, scallops, duck, and mushrooms are also available—sizzle on domed grills, watched over by easygoing, competent servers. Flanked with chile and funky bean pastes (purely optional) and lettuce leaves for wrapping the meats, this experiential feast is the antidote to gimmicky Japanese steakhouses and their knife-juggling chefs. And just when you think the meal is complete, a staffer comes over and chucks a pile of seaweed-flecked rice onto the grill, mixing it with the last meaty morsels and mild kimchi. Voila, transcendent fried rice.