Less than two years after floods engulfed it in six feet of Chattahoochee overflow, you could walk into Canoe today and never sense what happened. The rustic-chic dining room received a gentle update, and the moneyed regulars returned immediately. Canoe’s ambitious kitchen, helmed by executive chef Carvel Grant Gould, transcends the country club stereotype. Brunch particularly enamors, when a frisky Bloody Mary and a view of the riverside gardens fortifies you before an unhurried meal of she-crab soup with cream sherry and sunny-side-up eggs with pheasant ragout over a toasted biscuit flavored with sage.