The squishy, melty double burger—the headliner of Bocado’s sandwich-heavy lunch menu—earns its cult status. But when I see groups at night who have ordered nothing but the burger, I yearn to intervene. I want to sidle up to those tables, kneel down eye-level like an earnest server, and pitch the menu’s many other highlights. Executive chef Todd Ginsberg’s salad of sliced peaches, pickled blueberries, and pistachio-arugula pesto draped with duck ham; the mild, gossamer chicken liver piled on bacon and caramelized onion toast; and pan-roasted chicken breast with grits and collards with a gentle white wine–Tabasco sauce all deserve the same blind devotion. The cocktail program has also grown much more serious lately; try the Blood and Sand, a Scotch-based powerhouse with subtle undertones of cherry and orange.