It is a tribute to owners Chris and Michele Sedgwick that Bistro VG’s swanky, all-white interior radiates refinement rather than feeling like a bad flashback to The Bonfire of the Vanities. The couple transformed their signature restaurant, Van Gogh’s, in 2006, and the reinvention is still the northern suburb’s most adventurous dining destination. Executive chef Eric Balderrama displays an uncommon knack for unifying ingredients. The puckery notes of green apple slaw and vanilla-citrus vinaigrette draw out the sweetness in a meaty crab cake, and a buttery herb jus bridges the flavors between a grilled pork chop, sliced peach, and a slick of grits.