No. 7: Miller Union
Of all the Atlanta chefs embracing Southern credos, Georgia native Steven Satterfield stands out as the traditionalist. You can trace his roots when you tackle his plate of grilled pork loin, simmered field peas, braised greens, and green tomato salsa. You follow his thinking when he rests duck confit atop a Louisiana maque choux of okra, tomatoes, and corn. And you relax into a deep sense of place at his harvest dinners every third Tuesday of the month. In June the centerpiece was ham prepared two ways alongside buttermilk biscuits and bowls of yellow squash, sliced tomatoes, creamed corn, and pole beans. Inevitable, irresistible peach cobbler with vanilla ice cream followed.
Opposites attract in business as well as in romance: Miller Union’s co-owner and general manager, Neal McCarthy, brings the savoir vivre to the party. A native of Kent, England, who managed Sotto Sotto and Fritti for five years, McCarthy tosses about his suave Brit accent and sly humor while whizzing around the dining room. The space unites the owners’ personalities: It’s a little bit posh, a little bit country. The central Hopperesque room lined with quirky knickknacks is one of my favorite sanctuaries in town. You’ll want to shed the day’s worries first at the three-sided bar, sipping a bourbon and popping grits fritters.
Beyond the whiskey selection, refresh yourself after a hot day with the Miller Thyme—gin, lemon, and thyme syrup. McCarthy curates a reasonably priced, globe-trotting wine list. Not in the mood for booze? Try the homemade blueberry and ginger soda.
999 Brady Avenue, 678-733-8550, millerunion.com
Photograph by Alex Martinez