No. 2: Cakes & Ale
Where does our dining critic eat most frequently whenoff the clock? Billy Allin’s buttery-lit boîte on the southeast corner of Decatur Square. No one vegetable-whispers like Allin, who accents the loveliest of-the-moment produce with flavors that unite the South, Italy, and the Middle East. His menu never stays still, but if you spy gnocchi or lamb shoulder with minted yogurt, pounce on them. The beverage program is in the best possible hands with Jordan Smelt, who has turned the short but deftly edited wine list into a Francophile’s fever dream.
Photograph by Alex Martinez