The city has never eaten so well in its wee hours. Nhan Le, owner of East Atlanta pho joint So Ba, and Angus Brown, a chef who previously worked at Miller Union, devised a brilliant spinoff: Brown, assisted by Le, takes over So Ba’s stoves at 10:30 every night except Sunday and cooks until 2:30 in the morning. Customers congregate on the restaurants’ enclosed patios, with its red lights and graffitied walls, nursing potent cocktails, sake, or offbeat wine varietals like minerally Muller-Thurgau from Germany or plummy Chateau Coupe Roses from Minervois, France.
Brown and Le attune the daily-changing menu—about two-dozen dishes of mostly small plates—to the tastes of chefs and other restaurant workers just kicking off work. That means intense ingredients like uni (sea urchin) perched atop kumamoto oysters or tossed in silky house-made tagliatelle with chile flakes and lemon. Salt and pepper shrimp arrive in a tempura-thin batter whole, to be eaten with shell and head on. More delicate palates will appreciate the sublime farm eggs, softly scrambled with goat cheese and chive and laid atop thick, grilled toast.
560 Gresham Avenue, 404-627-9911, octopusbaratl.com