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Allen Suh came aboard in November after previously working at One Flew South and Restaurant Eugene, and he’s reinvigorated the cooking at this tiny Candler Park diner that holds only four booths and seven bar seats. (The name is Spanish for “cat”; notice the collection of feline figurines on a shelf near the stove.) The egg dishes and starchy griddled comforts don’t break new ground, but they do benefit from Suh’s focused, light-handed touch. Go now, before the crowds milling across the street at the Flying Biscuit realize what they’re missing. (For more on Gato, see page 50.)
ORDER THIS: Huevos rancheros slathered with red and green salsas; sweet potato pancakes, especially satisfying with the addition of finely chopped pecans.
1660 McLendon Avenue, 404-371-0889