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A first look at Bistro Niko’s menu
 Posted
11/4/2009 12:53:00 PM
Our man “Micropundit” obtained an early copy of the menu at Bistro Niko, Buckhead Life Restaurant Group’s new venture in the Sovereign building that is scheduled to open tomorrow night. The company states the restaurant aims to be a bistro that “offers a lighter version of classic French cuisine.” And—I’ll be darned—this menu actually looks French! True-minded interpretations of that cuisine have become scarce in these parts. The menu, overseen by ex-Pano’s and Paul’s longtimer Gary Donlick, is long on cozy dishes: roast chicken, white bean soup, bouef Bourguignon with beef cheese, baba au rhum. Duck fat fries? Oh, yeah. Reasonable prices reflect the times, though I’m a little worried about the “faux gras” terrine and the “mock caviar Malossol” I see listed.
But so much of it looks like a welcome bit of something different. Here’s a taste of what awaits in the appetizer and main course categories, though keep in mind that the offerings may have been tweaked last minute. Meet you there for a glass of white Burgundy and some melted raclette.
Hors d'oeuvres
SOUPE D’HARICOT BLANC white bean soup, white truffle oil 7.00
SOUPE A L’OIGNON French onion soup gratinée au gruyère 7.00
MOULES “GILBERT” bouchot mussels, steamed, white wine, shallots, cream, parsley 9.00
SAUMON “CROQUE MONSIEUR” brioche grilled smoked salmon, gruyère cheese, (4 pcs) 12.00
RAVIOLI DE LAPIN rabbit ragu ravioli, buttery braising jus 12.00
POIVRON ROUGE FARCI BRANDADE DE MORUE roasted piquillo peppers filled with classic blend of pureed potato & salt cod 8.00
THON ET SAUMON tuna & salmon carpaccio, melon, ginger, orange 9.00
“FAUX” GRAS TERRINE port wine glaze, baguette toast 12.00
RACLETTE AU FROMAGE specialty melted cheese, pickled mushrooms 8.00
TARTARE DE BOEUF classic steak tartare, gaufrette chips 9.00
THON A LA NIÇOISE seared tuna nicoise 12.00
ESCARGOTS “EN CROÛTE” garlic butter, pernod, puff pastry
Entrées
CREVETTES EN PATE DE BRIQUE Bayou la Batre white shrimp crisped in thin pastry, artichokes, fingerling potatoes, Parisien mushrooms, lemon aioli 19.00
TRUITE MI FÛME AMANDINE sautéed short smoked mountain trout, toasted almonds, citrus olive oil emulsion, haricot vert, horseradish celeriac slaw 18.00
SAUMON BEURRE ROUGE Loch Duarte salmon, braised baby leeks, port wine beurre rouge 22.00
MORUE PIPPERADE Maine cod simmered in olive oil, confit of red & yellow peppers, olive tapenade 18.00
SOLE BARIGOULE roasted Maine lemon sole, artichokes, carrots, pearl onion stew 18.00
BOEUF BOURGUIGNON “kobe beef” cheeks braised in Burgundy wine, macaroni, baby carrots 22.00
VEAU HACHIS PARMENTIER veal osso bucco “sheppard’s pie,” celeriac-potato puree, petite salad vinaigrette 24.00
COQ AU VIN ROUGE braised Ashley farm’s chicken in red wine, bacon, mushrooms, potato puree 17.00
PORC MILANESE sauteed Berkshire pork sirloin cutlet, arugula, green apple, pickled red onion 19.00
AGNEAU CASSOULET DE JAMBE braised Elysian farm lamb shank, cous cous, apple, currants, prunes 24.00
QUICHE AUX POIREAUX ham & leek quiche, petite salad vinaigrette 14.00
POUSSIN RÔTI “A LA MINUTE” ET FRITES our specialty “fresh roasted,” Palmetto farms whole young chicken, duck fat fries 18.00
TOURNEDOS AU POIVRE twin beef tenderloins, cracked pepper crusted, brandied cream mushrooms 29.00
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Bill Addison
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i worked here for a little while - menu can be truly great one meal, then disappointing the next. the agneau cassoulet de jambe is hearty and perfect, the coq au vin is not the coq au vin you crave -- wrong wine or something. Mussells are the best appetizer by far -- wouldn't recommend the tartes (thin-pizzas, not listed here) or the escargot. The Croque Monsieur or Madame is a good breafasty lunch sandwhich, I'd do that for a mid-day meal. Steak Tartare is good -- seen a lot of the rabit ravioli come back haf-eaten to the dish pit, so maybe no to that. All around, you can have a great meal here, but really push your waiter for recommendations. A lot of the "classic" french items (like escargot, coq au vin, even the soups) are on there just because they have to be, not because the restaurant does them particularly well.
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Posted By
cant say
On
2/21/2010 8:28:18 AM
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WHITE BEAN SOUPPP YESSSS
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Posted By
kris kasabian
On
11/11/2009 6:17:46 PM
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Menu looks wonderful and prices are good
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Posted By
Roger Solomon
On
11/5/2009 6:40:09 PM
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