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Bill Addison's Restaurant Reviews
Bill Addison's Restaurant Reviews
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9/1/2010
No, not Marietta’s famous tongue-scorcher: This Norcross newcomer serves Shanghai surprises
Four years ago, local food fanatics discovered the Szechuan cooking of Peter Chang in a scruffy Marietta strip-mall joint called Tasty China—an innocuous name that became synonymous with nuclear meltdowns of the mouth. Chang, who had two food writers chasing after him for the New Yorker and the Oxford American this year, possesses a culinary charisma that is two parts ...
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8/1/2010
The beloved destination still revels in luxurious seasonal pleasures
A server at Bacchanalia set down an orb of crabmeat bound in a bronzed coating of breadcrumbs, arranged over splayed avocado slices, and stippled with orange and grapefruit sections. Vanilla beans speckled a shallow pool of vinaigrette at the bottom of the bowl; the maternal warmth of their aroma and flavor calmed the precocious jolts of Thai pepper essence that ...
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8/1/2010
Bacchanalia's sister needs individuality
EXTENDED VERSION
I walked into Quinones at Bacchanalia, glanced around, and realized I was the only fellow wearing a suit. This surprised me. After all, Quinones is the most formal restaurant experience left in Atlanta. Situated on the lower level of the Westside complex that houses Bacchanalia and Star Provisions, the hushed Southern Gothic dining room holds only eleven tables. ...
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7/1/2010
Sophisticated specialties distinguish this Vietnamese newcomer from the competition
I sat in the foyer of Nam Phuong in Norcross, hunched over my iPhone and madly Googling the names of Vietnamese dishes I’d never heard of before. On the restaurant’s back wall, a glowing white screen broadcast the restaurant’s daily specials. The program running the projection rhythmically underlined the words over and over again—the PowerPoint equivalent of a broken record. ...
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I have cried only once at a culinary event: the 2007 James Beard Foundation Awards, when a towering man in a tuxedo and a ruffled shirt bounded onstage, collected the medal that honored his restaurant as an America’s Classic, and opened his mouth. “I want to thank God, R.E.M., and the University of Georgia,” Dexter Weaver said with the booming voice of a preacher. The crowd went wild. All that love for Athens, Georgia, and ...
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