Eastern Indian cuisine is scarcely represented in local restaurants. We’re missing fish dishes cooked in heady mustard oil and scented with a potent spice blend called panch phoron, as well as juicy, cheese-based sweets. Immigrants from Bangladesh, which separated from the eastern stretch of India in 1947, run a few local restaurants—though there’s only one I honestly recommend. And while we’re looking eastward, it’s worth briefly touching on Indian Chinese cooking, a now-popular fusion with roots in the early nineteenth century, when an ethnic group known as the Hakka Chinese migrated to India.