Bhojanic - October 2009 - Spice Routes - Northern India - Atlanta Magazine



It might seem contradictory that a restaurant with the tagline “Fusion—Homestyle Indian—Tapas” would serve the most attuned North Indian dishes in the area, but New Delhi native Archna Becker—who owns the restaurant with her family—holds a marketing degree from Georgia State University: She’s inclined to pepper her business slogans with distinguishing language. Bhojanic’s lamb curry has the classic murky complexion, but the kitchen grinds its own spice combinations (many restaurants use packaged spice blends), so the flavors chime on the palate with greater clarity. Punjabi kadhi—fluffy onion dumplings in a yogurt sauce with layers of spiced nuance—is a comforting recipe from Becker’s grandmother. India has become one of the largest producers of corn in the world, and its most famous use of cornmeal is makki ki roti, a thin flatbread—thinner, firmer, and flakier than hoecakes. A thick dip of roasted eggplant, tomato, and caramelized onion accompanies Bhojanic’s roti. The menu does occasionally meander into fusion-ish territories: Malaysian breads, shrimp seasoned in a South Indian manner, cheesecake for dessert. I stick to the superior Northern specialties.

1363 Clairmont Road, Decatur, 404-633-9233,