Tandoor - October 2009 - Spice Routes - Northern India - Atlanta Magazine



The name is a misnomer: Sultry Pakistani stews, rather than tandoor-cooked dishes, draw an increasing base of loyalists here. Owner Shamshad Karim, who lived in both India and Pakistan as a child, frequently runs a one-man shop, and the utter lack of decor makes his storefront better for carryout. But oh, his nehari—unctuous, slow-cooked beef in a ruddy broth topped with ginger shreds that slice through the richness. Even better is his haleem, an odd-sounding porridge made of ground meat (in this case, goat), lentils, and flour simmered until all the ingredients combine into the culinary version of a warm hug. The meat-free equivalent is chana dal, a thick potage of spiced split chickpeas cooked into a silky puree and intensified with green chiles. Sop the sauces with a tortillalike chapati flatbread.

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