King + Duke

Ford Fry (JCT Kitchen & Bar, No. 246, the Optimist) took over the Buckhead space that housed Southwestern wonderland Nava. The beige adobe plaster and Native American prints vanished, replaced by a glossy tavern motif—dark walls, mixed woods, and shelves lined with literary classics (a nod to the name, inspired by Adventures of Huckleberry Finn). Much of the food emerges from a twenty-four-foot hearth outfitted with a wood-burning oven and several grills. Take your cues accordingly: Smoky aromas heighten roasted carrots and beets mingled with feta and harissa; gutsy sears brand the lamb chops and steaks.