Restaurant Reviews - Atlanta Magazine
 
 

Restaurant Reviews

St. Cecilia

Ford Fry's Italian blockbuster aims to please the masses

You can walk into Buckhead’s St. Cecilia and simply be swept into its maelstrom, starting with the stark drama of the 11,000-square-foot room—the glass windows three stories high, the white-tiled columns, and the ceiling that soars twenty-six feet into the sky. Read more...

Osteria Mattone

The team behind Southern-themed Table & Main goes Italian

Announcing the next big culinary trend: Southern chefs embracing the cuisines of Italy. Yes! It’s officially a thing. And it isn’t such a wacky stretch, really. The two cultures share deep agrarian roots, and their most rewarding foods stem from humble origins and a mutual love of pork and vegetables. Read more...

Sobban

The sibling to Heirloom Market BBQ serves modern fusion in retro digs

Sobban bills itself as a “Korean Southern diner.” That such an idea even took root—and probably draws the most voracious crowds since the place first cranked out roast beef sandwiches—speaks to this moment in the city’s dining evolution. Read more...

Online review: Pallookaville, Avondale Estates

Our food critic begins a monthly series of online-only restaurant reviews

I’m studying the drink section of the carnival-meets-deli menu at Pallookaville Fine Foods, wrapping my head around the list of over thirty soda fountain syrup flavors. Some options sound like death by sweetness (butterscotch, marshmallow), others intrigue (including papaya and especially tiger’s blood, which combines watermelon, strawberry, and coconut). But finally I fall back on a favorite treat from the rare soda fountains—already a dying breed in the 1980s—that I encountered in my youth. Read more...

Kimball House

Slurp cocktails and oysters at this dapper Decatur hot spot

Kimball House, Decatur’s buzziest new restaurant, doesn’t take reservations. In most places, such a policy leads to a wait about as pleasurable as the midnight drive-through line at Zesto’s. Read more...

Ink & Elm

Grown-up dining comes to Emory Village

When designed-to-the-hilt Ink & Elm came on the radar in early September, an immediate reaction echoed through Atlanta’s food circles: A fine-dining restaurant opened in Emory Village? The college district that thrives on cheapo chains and joints dispensing pancakes and tacos now boasts a gourmet bastion with valet parking? Whoa. Its very existence seemed to mock the memory of Everybody’s Pizza, the populist favorite that dwelled a few doors up and closed in March after forty-one years. Read more...

Updated Reviews: Woodfire Grill and Abattoir

The restaurants recruit star chefs to reboot their menus

Monkfish Tail, in the shape of a miniature cornucopia, sits on a small bed of fluffy basmati rice and curried chickpeas. Tikka masala sauce artfully dribbles down one side of the fish into a scarlet pool on the plate. Its synced, grooving flavors—a bass line of cumin and coriander, the smooth phrasing of heavy cream, ginger, and garlic in close harmony—mingle with the meaty swimmer and hum like a Motown chart-topper. A dab of cucumber chutney on the side adds a shimmering falsetto note. Read more...

Five & Ten

Hugh Acheson's flagship finds a gracious new setting

Who is Georgia’s most enterprising chef? I’d say Hugh Acheson, whose career has proliferated faster than a zucchini patch over the last two years. In April 2011 Acheson, who’d opened Empire State South in Midtown eight months earlier, appeared on Bravo TV’s Top Chef Masters, only to be voted off in the first episode after a salty scallop debacle. Read more...

King + Duke

Ford Fry reinvigorates uptown dining

Buckhead is back, y’all, reveling in its first restaurant boomlet since the middle of last decade. And just like old times, each fresh-faced entrant quickly galvanizes a certain facet of the uptown community, spawning distinct social microclimates. Read more...

Gunshow

Kevin Gillespie redefines the restaurant experience

After a bout of doldrums, when only a handful of exciting restaurants opened in each of the last few years, 2013 is fizzing with activity. And among the new crop, Gunshow stands out as one of the most promising, perplexing, interactive, and utterly ballsy restaurants Atlanta has ever seen. Read more...