Italian-only wine lists are on the rise throughout the city (the affordable options at Buckhead’s just-opened STG Trattoria stand out), but none yet compete with the 200-bottle compendium at Riccardo Ullio’s fourteen-year-old jewel. This is the place to discover the country’s subtle whites, blushing but mightily tannic Barolos, raisiny Amarones, and Tuscany’s food-friendly Brunello di Montalcinos made from the Sangiovese grape.
Drink This: 2007 Verdicchio di Matelica La Monacesca, an understated white that grows nuttier as it warms and pairs charmingly with delicate pastas like tortelloni stuffed with artichoke and mascarpone: $55.
313 North Highland Avenue, sottosottorestaurant.com
This listing originally appeared in our June 2012 issue.