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Executive chef Eric Balderrama’s menu balances an unusually smart mix of New American favorites (meaty crab cakes with mustard beurre blanc, filet mignon with black truffle butter) and imaginative dishes that play with urbane trends. His “oxtail ragout en croute” is essentially a potpie filled with soulfully tender meat, and his piquant, exquisite steak tartare will make you wonder why this Continental classic ever fell out of favor. Desserts (tiramisu, beignets, chocolate fritters) could use a creative jolt. The finale of a meal, for now, is finishing the last sips of wine chosen from a wisely edited list of New World and French selections.