Restaurants

Golden House

This splashy Cantonese restaurant in a grandiose building just east of the freeway targets a wealthy Asian community that no longer considers Buford Highway the center of its universe. Chef Danny Ting, who recently left popular Bo Bo Garden in Chamblee and nearby Wan Lai before that, has already rallied many of his faithful customers.

The menu centers on Ting’s specialties: beautifully seasoned seafood dishes like fish fillet soup with black pepper, clay pot casseroles (spareribs and taro is a favorite), and phenomenal pan-fried noodles. Dripping chandeliers and chairs draped in red silk create an illusion of frilly lavishness.

Thanks to new kitchen muscle hired from New York, the dim sum selection (served every day but with many more choices on the weekend) quickly caught up with the rest of the menu’s excellence, with especially good barbecued pork buns and translucent radish cakes made with nuggets of Chinese sausage. Clever partitions in the dining area enable parties of many different sizes to dine simultaneously.

Photo by Greg Dupree