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We love the wood-grilled octopus served over a simple pickled red onion salad with a splash of red wine vinaigrette. Whole fish like royal dorade (a swimmer in the bass family) is a worthy investment, but for today’s ADHD eating habits you could make a meal of the small “mezze” plates. Hawaiian herb-crusted white tuna with quinoa salad and preserved lemon wowed at a late spring meal, as did pancakelike zucchini fritters slathered with feta and spiced yogurt.
Greek wines, ouzo, and good service make for a fine time, and the over-the-top decor adds a touch of magic to this Buckhead Life Restaurant Group fantasy.