Tempo Doeloe

Operating a grocery store next door helps the owners of this modest Indonesian restaurant manage a substantial inventory of authentic ingredients and condiments. The best deal in the house—$4.99 for three “tastes” and a big plate of rice—is served from a small steam table crammed full of beef curries, fish stews, and intriguing combinations featuring hard-boiled eggs, tofu, and an unusually delicious fresh tempeh in rich coconut milk gravy.

Ordering from the regular menu may not be as easy or inexpensive, but it yields amazing soups, crepes stuffed with egg and scallions, massive heaps of thin fried noodles, and huge savory pastries resembling empanadas. It doesn’t boast much decor, but it does keep late hours and enjoys the enthusiastic support of its community. Note to those who avoid pork: The kitchen follows halal guidelines.