Varasano’s Pizzeria

Everyone who crosses the threshold of Jeff Varasano’s south Buckhead pizza joint seems to have forceful and divergent opinions to share afterward. Some are confused to see Varasano working the floor rather than in the kitchen making the pizza recipe that brought him Internet fame. (His frank answer to us on that point: “It’s not my thing.”)

When it comes down to the pies in question, though, we’ve had some stellar snarf fests—particularly when the pizza is topped with caramelized onions and Emmenthaler. Salads and sweets are serviceable.