Varuni Napoli

Located off the intersection of Monroe and Piedmont, this isn’t just another Neapolitan pizzeria with a claim to authenticity. A true son of sunny Naples who previously worked at Antico Pizza, Luca Varuni has built a spacious dining room around a shiny, open kitchen that delivers appropriately thin and beautifully charred pies. Fifteen variations, many without sauce, and a build-your-own option pull in Morningside families who crowd the space nightly. (Varuni is open for lunch only on weekends.) We’re drawn to the simple margherita and the earthy Spacca Napoli with oak-roasted mushrooms and caramelized onions; both boast an aromatic splendor that reminds us of Italy. Skip the appetizers and eat your pie quickly: The crust loses its vigor as it cools