There is nothing rustic about this gorgeously renovated Art Deco gas station in the Martin Luther King Jr. Historic District. The pulled pork and beef brisket can be vital and moist or listless and dry. Pink, lacquered ribs deliver more consistency, and the barbecued duck meat has a wondrously creamy texture. Ask for the sauce (hot or mild) on the side, and choose mustard greens or potato salad as accompaniments.