Leave your previous Indian-restaurant experiences—the sodden, unevenly spiced curries; the repetitive menus of tikka masala and saag paneer—at the door of this intimate Berkeley Heights boîte. Chef-owner Asha Gomez takes her singular cooking in two directions. She re-creates the dishes of her childhood in Kerala, on the subcontinent's southwest coast: beef humming with sweet spices alongside cool yogurt rice on banana leaves, fish in a sauce zinged by a smoked fruit called kodampuli. Gomez also marries the flavors of the Indian South with the American South, experimenting with dishes like surprisingly delicate pickled catfish. The Kerala fried chicken over waffles makes converts out of those who swear they dislike any form of Indian food.