Shaun Doty and Lance Gummere—brothers-in-law who last worked together at defunct Shaun's in Inman Park—put a fast-casual spin on the local food trend with a family-friendly restaurant across from Starbucks in Ansley Mall. Rotisserie chicken may seem like a passé concept, but Doty learned the art of quality execution for quick meals with his Yeah! Burger restaurants (which he sold in 2012). He pulls it off with poultry as well. The centerpiece plate is a juicy quarter or half bird—sourced from White Oak Pastures in South Georgia—served with a choice of dipping sauces (try the Dominican wasakaka, made from garlic, oregano, and parsley) and two sides. Choices include aged cheddar mac and cheese, pickled beets with goat cheese, and duck fat fries.
Wait, though: There is much more to the restaurant than roast chicken. Chopped chicken liver spread, pork schnitzel topped with peanuts and onions, gluten-free chicken tenders, mini pies displayed in a front case, and straightforward cocktails (as well as beer and wine) all woo crowds who never before thought of this open-air mall as a food destination.
Doty's savvy approach extends to breakfast, when he plies sleepy customers with pork schnitzel and chopped liver on toast straight from the lunch and dinner menus. Fret not, traditionalists: Eggs and biscuits make an appearance too. Order this: Crisp fried chicken strips over cheddar waffle with Steen's cane syrup; the Southern (three organic eggs cooked any style with heirloom speckled grits, pimento cheese, bacon, and jalapeño cheese bread); and, as a decadent side, poutine (fries doused with chicken gravy and cheese curds).
Note that you pay at a counter and scout out your own table, inside or on a heated patio, or pull up to the bar overlooking the hustling kitchen.