Located in the new Emory Point complex near the CDC off Clifton Road, this airy looker lined with gleaming white subway tile is one of the most original and warmhearted restaurants to open in recent years. “Jewish deli” doesn't cover the gamut of its ambitions, though it's a sensible term to begin defining the cuisine. A back counter sells superb “appetizing”—the word used to describe whitefish salads, lox, and cream cheese bagel schmears—that also appear on morning and afternoon menus. Executive chef Todd Ginsberg takes cues from delicatessen fare but really draws from the whole of the Jewish diaspora, including Eastern European and New York classics (chopped liver, matzo ball soup, excellent Reuben and pastrami sandwiches) as well as frequently changing Middle Eastern– and Mediterranean-influenced dishes showcased at dinner.
Photograph by Greg DuPree