Choose any mealtime, day or night, and this airy restaurant near Emory—labeled a "Jewish deli" for shorthand but encompassing so much more—will impress. Breakfast brings the pleasures of the city's chewiest, most satisfying bagels, smeared with cream cheese and overlaid with supple lox or smoked salmon. The lunchtime pastrami sandwich, piled extravagantly, brings even New Yorkers to their knees. Dinner shifts gears and reveals chef Todd Ginsberg's finesse with small plates, previously witnessed at Bocado: Try the Swiss chard fritters dusted with Parmesan.
Photograph by Greg DuPree