Call Buckhead's thirty-two-year-old steakhouse timeless or call it a dinosaur, its secret is this: It attracts power because owners Susan DeRose and Richard Lewis run a formidable business themselves. Servers are trained within an inch of their free will. The restaurant guards secrets (most notably, where it sources its beef). It doesn't assign celebrity status to its chefs. It only adapts trends that benefit the company: When it uploaded its 1,350-bottle wine list onto iPads last year, wine sales spiked 11 percent in the first two weeks. The place runs like a German automobile fresh off the assembly line. You don't see the mechanics; you just feel the rush.
The exhilaration begins with a straight-up gin martini, slightly dirty and garnished with blue-cheese-stuffed olives. Stoke your appetite with beef carpaccio, as soft as room-temperature butter, or lump crab salad with rémoulade and cocktail sauces. Come the the main event, we like the dry-aged bone-in rib-eye, a $65 monster that delivers surge after surge of tang and smokiness. You might prefer the New York strip, with its primal mineral smack, or a lean filet mignon (ignore the bone-on specimen).
Who says you can't have a power lunch by your lonesome? Mosey up to the bar and order the burger, its surface seasoned and seared so fiercely it actually tastes like chopped steak. Munch on onion rings while you work your smartphone and plot your next corporate maneuver.