Nakato—the city's most venerated Japanese restaurant, rapidly approaching forty years in business—possesses two distinct personalities. There's the hibachi room, where birthday celebrants of all ages watch jocular chefs cook their dinners in front of them. But the purists gravitate to the garden room, which serves pristine sushi and sashimi flown in daily as well as shabu-shabu, in which meats and vegetables are dipped in simmering broth to cook. The restaurant's spare, midcentury decor lends a David Lynch sort of surrealism to the experience—which makes it an ideal part of the cultural collage that is Cheshire Bridge Road.