Chef Robert Phalen brings his adventurous approach to the former Shaun's space, the walls of which are now lined with taxidermy (including, yes, a buck sporting the Vincent van Gogh look). A person of conservative tastes can find much to enjoy—a Wedge salad, a lovely lump crab roll with lemon aioli at lunch, perhaps a roasted duck breast with cranberry chutney in winter.

But plenty of customers are eager to nibble at Phalen's forays into the unconventional—roasted tuna collar with arugula gremolata, trout crudo with smoked roe, a pork tasting that includes belly, tongue, and sausage. Phalen changes his bold menu constantly, so check the restaurants' website for his latest brainstorms.

Photo by Joe Martinez