Chef-owner Gerry Klaskala builds menus with familiar comforts—crab cakes, smoked salmon, pork shoulder, short ribs—and heightens them with a melting pot of seasonings and accompaniments. His masterstroke is the butter-braised lobster floating in a lagoon of black-truffle-scented mashed potatoes and a ring of broccoli puree. He salutes the South with warm-weather entrees like herb-crusted sole with bacon, brown butter vinaigrette, and a succotash of white corn and lady peas. Pastry chef Kathryn King has always been Aria's secret weapon. Like Klaskala, she composes winners—warm chocolate cheesecake, seasonal creations like upside-down black plum cake—that satisfy more than astound. General manager Andres Loaiza, a polished charmer, directs a front-of-house staff with one of the lowest turnover rates in the business. On busy nights, the dining room takes on a glittery Buckhead frisson.