Look past the stuffy, subterranean-feeling atmosphere to enjoy executive chef Bruce Logue's progressive Italian cooking. Begin with the prosciutto di Parma served with crunchy flatbread, fresh ricotta, and zippy pineapple mostarda. One of Logue's crudos—a variation on seafood tartare such as tuna with avocado and marjoram in cucumber brodo—cleanses the palate before a warm antipasto, perhaps duck and chestnut tortellini with cured foie gras or the Mario Batali–inspired Sicilian calamari.
Then, the extraordinary pastas: pappardelle with bolognese, tagliatelle tossed with the most seasonal vegetables, the signature black spaghetti with rock shrimp and sausage, unpredictable specials. Staffers typically offer smart suggestions from the all-Italian wine list.