Chef Kevin Rathbun is a powerhouse in the kitchen, and backed by his pastry chef, Kirk Parks, he emerges as an entrepreneur on the path to stardom. Wonderful small plates (from crudo to eggplant steak fries with confectioners' sugar), hearty entrees, and signature "Second Mortgage" plates make for fun yet serious dining in a supercool, postindustrial room that may be hard on the ears. Luckily, a quiet covered patio provides aural escape.