Tomohiro Naito's Buckhead show palace juggles two personalities. One indulges in flash: It draws the beautiful crowds with an airy space paved with black slate floor tiles and a menu with plenty of anarchic riffs on sushi rolls, like garlic yellowtail roll with sake-Gorgonzola sauce. But the quieter side of Tomo lures the chowhounds. Settle into comfortable chairs for a lunch of simple, highest-quality nigiri and sashimi on Tuesday and Thursday (the day the best fish arrives from Tokyo's Tsukiji Market). Or agree with the staff on a budget (often between $100 and $150), and they'll prepare an exquisite meal of nine or ten courses, perhaps including chawanmushi—a savory custard topped with uni—and ending with an aromatic black sesame flan made by Naito's wife, Kimiko.