If you ever visited Tomo in Vinings, you'll remember the individualistic little shopping center storefront with the stucco walls and the tiny sushi bar in the dining room's left corner.

The new Tomo is not that restaurant. Relocated to a posh live-work building in Buckhead, chef-owner Tomohiro Naito has supersized his ambitions and channeled his mentor Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, whose global Nobu restaurants flaunt the same dimly lit, cavernous, and somewhat impersonal flashiness as Naito's new digs.

At least the menu feels familiar, with Naito's Nobu-like penchants for sashimi spiked with jalapeño and ankimo (monkfish liver) terrine accented with ponzu jelly. But $42 for an entree with three modest-sized lamb chops? Yikes.

This new style for Tomo recalls the glory days of the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group's glittery Bluepointe, which, serendipitously, closed in November 2011. For those of us who cherished the intimacy of the original Tomo, its 2.0 reinvention will require some adjustment.