"As more and more commercial salsa pours into the marketplace (heavy on pineapple and fire-roasted mangoes), there is something doubly pleasurable about just-diced onion and tomatoes carefully cut into bright squares," writes David Tanis in "A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes" (Artisan, 2008). Eat it within a couple of hours of making it, while it still has its crunch, he advises. Serve it with everything. —Deborah Geering

Ingredients
2 pounds firm ripe tomatoes, in 1/4-inch dice
1 large sweet onion, finely diced
1 or 2 serrano chiles, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
1 small bunch parsley, leaves and tender stems chopped
1 small bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems chopped

Instructions
Put the tomatoes, onion, and chiles in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add the parsley and cilantro and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Makes 2 cups.