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Bill Addison's Restaurant Reviews
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3/1/2010
A Southern food champion and a British charmer deliver the best Westside story yet
The braised rabbit at Miller Union looks homely, as many of the South’s finest dishes do. Shredded meat, sauteed mushrooms, russet-colored gravy, and a moat of grits make for an unglamorous collage of earth tones. But, oh, the taste. Bite after bite, this entree reminds me of Nat King Cole’s voice: velvety, soothing, timeless. The rabbit is cooked for two hours with carrots, celery, and fennel in chicken stock and red wine before being pulled ...
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2/1/2010
Buckhead's bon vivants love their French hot spot, but the food needs polishing
Stepping into the blast of noise and spectacle generated by a new Buckhead Life Restaurant Group extravaganza always reminds me of that moment when Rick Moranis unwittingly opens the door to another universe in Ghostbusters. The brilliant light causes me to squint. I imagine my hair mussed from the rush of energy.
Bistro Niko, the group’s French-inspired brasserie, is the first local venture from the company since it launched Kyma, its upscale Greek restaurant, in ...
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1/1/2010
The Westside gets its first true neighborhood restaurant
Watching Atlanta’s Westside develop has been the urban equivalent of witnessing a new mountain range emerge in fast-forward: So much fresh geography, so many uncharted nooks. What is currently the area’s most fertile corridor of businesses—between the junction of Northside Drive and Marietta Street and the intersection of Howell Mill Road and Fourteenth Street—felt forsaken just five years ago. Now you can stop for Thai curry at Spoon, pick up cupcakes in a dozen flavors ...
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12/1/2009
A new Decatur Square hot spot hams it up
Federico Castellucci III understands hospitality. He appears at our table moments after we’re seated at his Decatur restaurant, the Iberian Pig. Wearing glasses with thick but modish black rims, he looks like an olive-skinned Clark Kent—and radiates that character’s earnestness, too. “Folks, thanks for stopping in,” he begins, smiling and extending his arms. “I’m a fifth-generation restaurateur. My family has been in this business for a hundred years. So if I’m not doing something right, ...
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11/1/2009
A new dream team reinvigorates a Cheshire Bridge favorite
Woodfire Grill on Cheshire Bridge Road has undergone many changes in the last year, but its most essential trademark endures. The sweet, smoky aromas drifting from the open kitchen at the dining room’s entrance still tranquilize as if a lullaby had dissolved into fragrance. Borrowed from the playbook of California cuisine, the layout places the focal point of cooking directly in the path of newly arrived guests, who inhale scents evocative of campfire and barbecue ...
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If I could eat only one thing for the rest of my life, it would be bread—freshly baked, crusty, yeasty bread. I firmly believe Atlanta doesn’t have nearly as many bakeries or artisan bakers as it merits, and I resent every extra mile I drive looking for an acceptable baguette or well-shaped boule.
Recently, my quest for quality bread has led me straight to Bakeshop, Jonathan St. Hilaire’s new Midtown haunt. Before he started making bread for Bob Amick’s local restaurant group, Concentrics Hospitality, I always thought of St. Hilaire as a tony executive pastry chef rather than a baker. ...
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Cheap Eats
Eat your way out of the recession
 Cutting back on spending doesn't mean having to cut back on taste. Our ultimate guide to eating well—for less.
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