A new chef inherits a storied legacy
I have baggage at Watershed. Left luggage, you might call it. The one local restaurant I really knew before moving here last year was the Decatur Watershed of Scott Peacock, whose quietly vibrant food defined what I thought could be Southern.Read more
The busy Ford Fry’s kingdom expands with two Tex-Mex spots
It doesn’t much matter what I think about Superica and The El Felix, Ford Fry’s two new Tex-Mex restaurants with almost identical menus and almost identical lines. When I asked the manager of The El Felix—in Avalon, the Alpharetta mall-city—how many diners they served, he said, “Three to four hundred on a slow night.”Read more
In the presence of Picasso and van Gogh, luxury dining returns to Atlanta
The chance to dine like modern royalty—waited on by attractive servers who manage to be attentive, alert, and friendly without being fawning—is a kind of gift to the city, the first luxurious hotel dining room since the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead fell victim to a crumbling economy in 2009.Read more
Can Kevin Ouzts’s first restaurant bring home the bacon?
As I listened to Kevin Ouzts, the very affable chef-owner of Krog Street Market’s the Cockentrice, describe how he makes a number of dishes on the menu, I thought what I did during my dinners there: Is this a new form of extreme eating?Read more
Its ambitions and energy are undeniable. But does the food deliver?
Sometimes restaurants have a lot going for them—just not all going at the same speed. Last Word, in the Old Fourth Ward, is one of them. It’s trying to do a lot: bring craft cocktails to a level of housemade everything, build a menu reminiscent of the co-owner’s native Lebanon and also the Maghreb countries of Morocco and Tunisia, and include late-night plates to complement the ambitious drinks.Read more
The family behind the Iberian Pig brings Basque cuisine to the Westside
Where Iberian Pig takes its inspiration from all of Spain, Cooks & Soldiers focuses on the Basque region, which gained an international profile during the craze over molecular gastronomy and its first exponent, Ferran Adrià of elBulli.Read more
A Charleston mainstay expands to Avalon. If only execution lived up to aspiration.
Where Oak Steakhouse aims to set itself apart from other steakhouses—as the genial, tall, bearded chef Chad Anderson will tell you if he comes by your table—is in its selling only Certified Angus Beef, all of it prime. If you order one of the four “classic steaks,” as I did the ribeye, the server will quickly ask, “Don’t you want the dry-aged?”Read more
Krog Street Market’s latest arrival takes the mystery out of sushi
Japanese menus can be hard to navigate. If you haven’t sufficiently committed to memory the looks and tastes of different nigiri and sushi offerings, you might resort to the cowardly California roll. Craft Izakaya is here to help take some of the mystery out of ordering.Read more
Raw fish in a smokehouse? This Atlantic Station arrival will leave you wondering.
It’s a smokehouse that smokes its own ribs, brisket, and pork. That part I get: Much of what’s smoked is good, and some of it’s memorable. But it’s also a raw bar with a daily selection of oysters, hamachi crudo, smoked salmon, smoked trout spread, and yellowfin with ponzu gelée.Read more
Krog Street Market’s first restaurant comes online
Consciously or not, the design of the Luminary—a mix of fin de siècle elegance and postindustrial minimalism—mirrors the inherent tension between tradition and progress that characterizes Inman Park, a historic neighborhood facing a tidal wave of new construction and its corollary traffic.Read more