The pricey steaks don’t deliver value you can taste
The prices at Marcel are stupendous. From the moment you do a double take at the menu, you’ll wonder why you would pay them. And when the check comes, you’ll still have no idea. Virtually every aspect of the chaotic, fragmented service feels clumsy or neglectful, and the kitchen has one instinct—leaden excess.
Kevin Gillespie’s version of a local meet-and-three re-creates the food he grew up with
Revival is Kevin Gillespie’s re-creation of the food he grew up eating at the table of his grandmother, whom he calls the best cook he’ll ever know, and who specialized in flavor-packed abundance.
The latest addition to Anne Quatrano’s empire, located near flagship Bacchanalia, offers just four main dishes
Here, oysters Rockefeller, cheese soufflé, and New York strip with bordelaise are made with such close attention to sourcing and with such careful, uncluttered technique that you start to pine for the days when food like this was served nightly by old-line clubs.
The city’s original sushi masters have returned, but can they still work their magic?
You’ll do just fine at MF Sushi Atlanta if you like showmanship, an attractive clientele (often in tight dresses), proficient sushi, and eggplant whose pale white flesh is forged over super-hot charcoal to surpassing creaminess. And if you know to ask which fish came in that day, no matter what specials the server announces.
Guy Wong’s new Vietnamese spot on the Westside is gorgeous, but order with care
At Le Fat, Guy Wong’s new Vietnamese restaurant, the design, inspired by the French colonial era, hits you the minute you walk in. The vintage signs convey an ornate Eurasian elegance, and the two rooms are painted the cool colors (particularly a muted green with pops of red) you find where it’s hot.
A new chef inherits a storied legacy
I have baggage at Watershed. Left luggage, you might call it. The one local restaurant I really knew before moving here last year was the Decatur Watershed of Scott Peacock, whose quietly vibrant food defined what I thought could be Southern.
The busy Ford Fry’s kingdom expands with two Tex-Mex spots
It doesn’t much matter what I think about Superica and The El Felix, Ford Fry’s two new Tex-Mex restaurants with almost identical menus and almost identical lines. When I asked the manager of The El Felix—in Avalon, the Alpharetta mall-city—how many diners they served, he said, “Three to four hundred on a slow night.”
In the presence of Picasso and van Gogh, luxury dining returns to Atlanta
The chance to dine like modern royalty—waited on by attractive servers who manage to be attentive, alert, and friendly without being fawning—is a kind of gift to the city, the first luxurious hotel dining room since the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead fell victim to a crumbling economy in 2009.
Can Kevin Ouzts’s first restaurant bring home the bacon?
As I listened to Kevin Ouzts, the very affable chef-owner of Krog Street Market’s the Cockentrice, describe how he makes a number of dishes on the menu, I thought what I did during my dinners there: Is this a new form of extreme eating?
Its ambitions and energy are undeniable. But does the food deliver?
Sometimes restaurants have a lot going for them—just not all going at the same speed. Last Word, in the Old Fourth Ward, is one of them. It’s trying to do a lot: bring craft cocktails to a level of housemade everything, build a menu reminiscent of the co-owner’s native Lebanon and also the Maghreb countries of Morocco and Tunisia, and include late-night plates to complement the ambitious drinks.