No. 246

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Espresso fizz at No. 246

Photograph courtesy of No. 246

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In eight years, this Ford Fry Italian spot has become an incubator for talent: Chefs who cut their teeth here have gone on to helm such innovative restaurants as Banshee and 8Arm. Executive chef Drew Belline’s textbook pasta runs the gamut from cacio e pepe (the ultimate exercise in simplicity) to a gut-warming rigatoni Bolognese. Roasted chicken gets a hint of sweetness from agrodolce and a hint of wood fire from the charred broccoli, which is impossible to stop eating. 129 East Ponce de Leon Avenue, Decatur, 678-399-8246,