In the same way that Kyma’s wood-grilled octopus and whole fish lift you to culinary vistas way beyond the average gyro joint, the restaurant’s beverage program cracks open the under-explored world of Greek wines. Varietal names like Assyrtiko and Agiorghitiko may intimidate, but both the whites and reds (with many choices by the glass) possess clean qualities that flatter the cuisine.

Drink This: 2011 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko-Athiri, a crisp white that mirrors the freshness of the restaurant’s many seafood specialties: $55.

3085 Piedmont Road,

This listing originally appeared in our June 2012 issue.